June: "Winter" in Rio

Well, I am writing my last blog from Rio. As I sit here, the buses and cars rattling past my apartment, the water in the distance turning from bright blue to black as the day turns to night, I wonder how it will feel to be in a different reality stateside.

I have learned much about myself here, and not just culturally. I am a different traveller than I was in my university years. Some might even call me boring, but I say this is growing up. I am less surprised by and more accepting of the oddities and difficulties I see around me here. Sometimes this is flexibility and resourcefulness, sometimes it is apathy or jadedness.

I have met people. Good people. Bad people. From South Georgia to DC to Rio de Janeiro, I still find the thing that the most important resource any place has is its people. This month, I was invited to speak at the District Rotary Conference for the whole state of Rio de Janeiro. We went to a small resort town called Sao Lorenzo in the state of Minas Gerais. For me, it was a challenge to get up in front of hundreds of people and speak in a foreign tongue about my experiences. I began by thanking them for the opportunity to learn a language, but then, instead of talking about what I learned, I spent the rest of my time speaking about how I as a person had been evolved as a person due to the Brazilians and my time getting to know them. Wherever I go, I value the friendships I have made, the people I have known(some never to see again), and the time I have shared that changed me as a person. In the words of Tennyson,

"I am a part of all that I have met."

Touched. Changed. The eternal cycle of birth, death, and rebirth continues here and there and everywhere, leaving me an individual wiser and deeper for the knowledge of other cities, people, and cultures. Sometimes the process is painful, but in my own opinion, it is always good.

For now, signing off from Rio.

Salvador and May Thoughts

When I was given this Rotary Ambassadorial Scholarship, I think it was in part because the Rotary Foundation believed that I was able to go further into other cultures than the average American. That being said, this month, I find myself at a crossroads where the words “To whom much is given, much is required.” I hope that my blog will in some way be able to bring you closer to a reality of Brazil and what I have seen and experienced here.

Andrea’s Visit and Salvador- I have recently had the pleasure of having Andrea visit for a couple of weeks. After spending a few days in Rio while she got over jetlag, we used some local holidays to board a plane for Salvador in the Northeastern state of Bahia. Salvador was the center of slavery in Brazil (slavery was abolished in 1889). Today, the city’s African roots are seen in local food dishes, heavy drum music like Ache, and the fight dance of capoeira created by slaves. In Salvador, we visited the historical center of Pelourinho, an old colonial square resting atop a cliff over the port. We ate heavily fried, spicy food made with a special oil called dende that comes from palm. My personal opinion on the city was that, though it has a rich culture, there are a lot of have-nots and few economic opportunities, leading to an unstable environment once you get out of certain tourist areas.

Rotary in Bahia- While in Bahia, we visited a local Rotary Club (Rotary Club of Bahia-Barra). We were well received by the small club of maybe fifteen members, and I gave a ten minute presentation on my local club, Georgia, and my experiences in Brazil. What was even better than visiting the Rotary Club was an invitation by Daryl, another Ambassadorial Scholar, to have dinner with him and his girlfriend (Sabrina) back at his house. Daryl is a Texan and is doing a Masters of Economics in Salvador. The four of us had a nice evening, and Daryl gave us a treat of Tex-Mex food. Luckily, after our return to Rio, I was able to return the favor by inviting Daryl and Sabrina out to dinner when they visited Rio.

Morro De Sao Paulo and Chapata Diamantina- After Salvador, we took two hour boat ride to an island called Morro de Sao Paulo. The beach town is so small that there are no cars, and “taxi’s” for your luggage consist of wheelbarrows pushed by locals. The beaches were nice, and it was nice to be able to let our guard down after being in Rio and Salvador. It rained, so we took the boat back the next day. The return was quite an experience and rocky seas nearly caused us to join the many people who lost their lunch over the side.
From Salvador, we took a six hour bus ride to Lencois. Lencois is a town of maybe 5,000 that sits on the edge of Chapata Diamantina National Park. The laid-back town itself was worth the trip, as the city is a great example of smart tourism with private and public partnerships. The downtown of Lencois received a grant by UNESCO to preserve and develop the area. Clean streets, an artisan fair, and an updated central square, complement a row of privately-owned restaurants serving Italian, Bahian, and even organic food. And then there was Chapata. Chapata is a nature reserve I would liken to a mixture of US West Coast mesas and East Coast greenery. We did a five hour hike that crossed over one of the plateaus to a view of the highest waterfall in Brazil (Cachoeira da Fumaca). The area was also littered with waterfalls and dark water pools where one can swim or wade. All in all, I think Chapata was the best part of the trip.

Back in Rio- Heading back to Rio, Andrea took sick and we ended up having to take her to the doctor who told her she had an intestinal infection. Luckily, after an IV, a couple of days of rest and antibiotics, she was a hundred percent, and we were able to enjoy our last couple of days before she headed back to New Jersey.

Other than that, a quick note on Brazilian Economics.

Brazilian Economics Pros and Cons- Brazil many strengths, and its jump to investment grade is a testament to this. A recent boon in commodity prices has made it a strong exporter of agricultural, mineral, and petroleum products. It has a large internal consumer market ballasting external investment. The country is energy self-sufficient and has the largest reserves of fresh water in the world. Labor is cheap. The country has paid off its external debt. The industrial and financial heart of Sao Paulo makes up about a quarter of the country’s GDP, and will continue to be in the list of world cities in the coming years.
That being said, the growth of the economy is not without weaknesses or negative results. Inefficiencies continue to plague the country. Outside of the southern cities, the infrastructure of roads, airports, and railways is non-existent at worst, and at best a pain to use. Graft and corruption infiltrate Brazilian government and business and have led to an unwieldy bureaucracy which discourages private sector growth. Often, who you know and not your merits are what get you the job. Taxes and tariffs are high, and because of this, a large black market of goods and services exists. Public education is weak, and though labor is cheap, it is also uneducated and unable to move up a stratified society by hard work. As the country continues to expand agriculture sector to keep up with demand, much of the rainforest is being cut down to make room for soy and cattle farming. The country’s ability to deal with these weaknesses over the next decade will truly define whether Brazil can enter the “developed” world.

March Musings

The month of March continued the regime of daily language training, and I have reached a level comfortable enough to communicate in the future in business. That is a nice place to be, but now begins the tedious task of perfecting all of the small details that impede one not from communication, but from sounding competent. Below are a few highlights of the month.



Sao Paulo. In mid-March, I was lucky enough to have an invite to speak at the Rotary Club of Sao Paulo-Sudeste. My friend Karuna's father, Lakhi is a Rotarian in Sao Paulo and I could not turn down the chance to check out a new city while simultaneously talking with a group of Rotarians about the Rotary Foundation. I took the overnight bus from Rio for $R70 and then the metro and taxi to Karuna's house. I usually eat well when I meet with clubs, but this time was especially nice, as Lakhi, Karuna's father, owns a very successful Indian restaurant called Tandoor. After arriving to the Daswani's home, Lhaki took me to his Club for my speech. I spoke about future personal goals and the future of relations between Brazil and the United States. After that, I left Lhaki to his professional responsabilities and went out to see the city (Karuna had to work during the day).

Sao Paulo is a giant. It is sprawl, as far as the eye can see. Traffic runs through its veins, and movement through it's air. The city was founded by Jesuit priests over 400 years ago and has since become the industrial and financial heart of Brazil. Due to business interests and cooler climate, people are also much more formal than their surfshort Rio counterparts. I checked out their central park, the Bovespa(the Brazilian Stock exchange), and the view of the city from the top of a tall building. One can see why Brazil and Sao Paulo will remain an economic force in the coming decades.


Dengue- Back in Rio's tropical climate, what began as a "normal" number of Dengue Fever cases, had grown into an epidimic. Rio's climate is perfect for mosquito larvae, and due to rains, standing water, and warmer than normal temperatures last year, Rio has experienced an increase in the transmitting mosquito Aedes aegypti. Though my part of the city is relatively free from cases, the suburban areas of the city have been hard hit. The poor public hospitals have been filled to the extent that the national government has set up military hospitals at the city's perimeter. Forty-thousand people have contracted the fever, and about fifty have died, mostly children and elderly. The fever actually passes after a few days, but without proper care, dehydration is deadly. It is a little scary, but in some ways, as a person with private health-care, the treatment accessible to me even if I were to contract the illness is much better than much of the population.

Poverty- Allow me to use this time to talk about poverty and the cycle of poverty that exists in Brazil(and much of the developing world). First, in my travels in non-developed countries, I forget to notice that I daily pass human beings that live a less than human existence. I guess I have been travelling long enough to not be shaken by such things, to even in some ways accept such things, that I forget to transmit this point to the American reader. Debates in the U.S. about poverty revolve around being disadvantaged. Not that I belittle this argument, but I feel that true poverty has never been seen by the average American. Statistically speaking, many Americans below the poverty line are overweight from eating cheaper fatty food. Though they many not have wonderful accommodations, home does exist. If you were to draw the poverty line in the developing world, people are underweight from not having any food at all. Home is a cardboard box next to open sewage for whole communities outside of the U.S.. As educated Americans(and you are educated if you are reading this on the internet), we are not often exposed to the poverty that is young, jaundiced, walking barefoot searching through the trash nightly for scraps. Programs are in place, non-profits and government do what they can, but the process of actual developing this lower population, even while a country has a healthy economy like Brazil, will take much investment, awareness, and more than that, time.

Future Plans- I will take this opportunity to state that I have recently accepted a fellowship to study a Masters in Public Policy at Duke University. I have been preparing to return to study for a while, but this weekend, I made my final decision. Beyond being in the South, I chose the Duke program for the quantitative strength and hands on skills of the program that I could later use in the workforce, and to analyze problems in trade and politics. I will start in the fall, and the program will last two years.

That's all for now. Pictures attached.
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Let me fill everyone in on the month of February.

Language. My routine with school continues, and I am beginning to miss fewer words at the dinner table. Most people here are to work with you if you are willing to try. My time here and experiences in Spanish-speaking countries have taught me that learning a foreign language is a very painful, time-consuming process that can only trudged through with a healthy sense of humor and patience. I have also learned that it is well worth it.

Culture and Carnaval. Brazil is a country rich with identity and flavor. This month was Carnaval. For one week, the whole city stops. The poor, the rich, the middle class, all forget their work, and revel in a jubilee of Samba and parades. The face of poverty and inequality is very real in Rio, but for one week, everyone forgets his/her cares and enjoys friends. Rio is alive at every hour. The neighborhoods have continual block parties led by local bands. Note to everyone reading this; I was surprised to find that Carnaval is not the debaucherous Spring Break Mardi Gras experience we have been told. My description would be one of light-hearted fun, dancing, singing, sharing time with friends. As classes were out, I spent Carnaval between the Sambadrome, Blocos(block-parties), and, weather permitting, the beach. The night of the Sambadrome, a group of classmates and I went to watch all of the different Samba Schools compete for the glory of Best Samba School. Twelve A-level schools and two B-level schools prepare dances, choreography, floats, and costumes for months all in preparation of an hour and a half parade down a stadium built specifically for the Parade. Despite heavy rain, it was a night to remember. I was sad when it ended, but alas, it was time to return to real life.

Real-life . Since the calendar and citizens of Rio divide the year into B.C. (Before Carnaval) and A.C.(After Carnaval), in some ways, I was happy to see Carnaval leave and the real Rio return. Some things that might be interesting for the reader. Rio is not a poor city. It is a city of major extremes. Barefoot boys beg on streets next to Gucci stores and secure high rises. The division of wealth, education, and opportunity is staggering.

As for violence, as you are all wondering, yes, it does exist. There are places to go and not go. There is a criminal underbelly funded by the drug trade that exists simultaneously with a healthy vibrant tourist industry. So, the criminal element. Most of the real violence you see in the movies is between highly organized gangs of one Favela(poor squatter's neighborhoods) and Police, or other rival gangs. Because of the danger of entering the Favelas, Police often go in shooting first and asking questions later. The drug lords make their money through cocaine and from what I gather, are quite wealthy, organized, and well-armed. Only problem is, most never are allowed to leave their Favela for fear of being killed. Most drug lords die young, usually in their early twenties. As for crime in the Favela, it doesn't exist, because the penalty for robbing or crime between residents is quite quite harsh. I say this all to educate, not scare. Let the reader know that not all Favelas are dangerous, and what crime that exists outside of the Favelas is largely petty theft.

Rotary. I was able to go to a meeting with one of the local clubs, where I was invited to take a visit to a community center funded by Rotary funds. The center is in, yes, you guessed it, a Favela. In March, a group of Rotarians and I will go to the center to see the educational, after school programs. I am excited to get involved. Rotary is doing a lot of community work here in health and educational programs. Last weekend, I attended the Rotary Awards dinner for the Rio de Janeiro District(4750). In addition to meeting local Rotarians and eating well, I was able to hear about all of the projects that were funded and executed by Rotarians. There are a lot of good business men and women here giving of themselves to create a better Rio.

If you have made it this far in the blog, I applaud you. I leave you with the below pictures.

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Showers and Soccer

So you guys don't think it's always a beautiful life here, until yesterday, Rio has had thirteen straight days of rain. Yes, the Tropics are good for sun and rain. On about day ten of the dampness, I also had my first sickness here and spent a day in bed with a head cold and a sore stomach. I think I am over it now, but I am still taking it easy with what I eat and drink.

Now that the weather has changed for the better, the city has returned to its usual happy demeanor. Casual dress and habits of the inhabitants follows from beach to business. One is almost never out of place in a pair of flip-flops (but they must be the Hawaiiana brand with the little Brazilian flag on the thong).

This week has also ushered in a warm flood and energy of Carnaval vacationers. I'm lucky to have a couple of friends and Rotary Scholars, Mike and Christina stop in for a few days to enjoy the festivities. Though unrelated to Carnaval, we had a proper Rio start by heading to Maracana Stadium today. Maracana is one of the largest stadiums in the world (it used to be the largest with 200,000 standing room, but football's governing body FIFA, said that seats must be included in the official numbers). The building is monumental, forming a perfect circle rising above the buildings in the surrounding neighborhood. My host brother, Rafael is a rabid Botafogo fan, so he took us to a between Botafogo and one of their Rio rivals, Vasco de Gama. Mike, Christina, and I learned how to shout, dance, and applaud in proper Fogo fashion. The teams all have songs and cheers, accompanied by fireworks, twenty foot swaying flags, and banners stretching hundreds of feet across the crowds. Final score. 3-2, Botafogo. I like to think we had something to do with it.

On the way out of the stadium, the three of us were pleasantly surprised to find a Rotary Statue right on the stadium grounds commemorating green space that Rotary sponsored right at the stadium. Gotta love it.

I leave you with the words of Fogo's anthem. Happy Carnaval to all!

E ninguém cala,
este nosso amor,
E é por isso que eu canto,
assim É por ti Fogo!!

And let no one be quiet,
this is our love,
and for this reason I sing,
like this for you Fogo!!

Hello All,

In an effort to continue my blog, I will give a brief update. Life here in Rio is going well. I continue to perfect my Portuguese, using my Spanish to fudge a little. I have gotten quite a routine with classes in the morning, and excursions or cultural classes in the afternoon.

Highlights from the past week or so. I spent an afternoon going up to Corcovado Hill, where the large statue of Christ the Redeemer stands. The view atop shows the whole of Rio below, with the Southern beach zones of Copacabana and Ipanema and the Lagoa(Lake) to the right, and the Center of the city and Guanabara Bay to the left. Quite worth the $20 ride to the top in the train. Pics attached.

Last weekend, a few classmates and I took an hour busride from Rio to Petropolis, the former summer home of the Emperor and his court. The town itself is nothing too exciting, but the ride up is well worth it. One climbs almost the moment one leaves Rio into the mountains, rewarded by lush green views of the valley and city below. For now that is all.

Interesting note of the week. Brazil is a former Kingdom. When Napoleon invaded Portugal, the King of Portugal and his court all packed up and moved to Rio de Janeiro, a move which changed the infrastructure and importance of the former colony forever. Also, if you would like to see some pictures, click on the following link. http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8AatGjZy5ZtmeG&notag=1

I Made It.

That's right, everyone! I'm in Rio. Sunday, I landed in the Cidade Maravilhosa(Marvelous City) and since then, I have been learning why the Cariocas(Residents of Rio) gave it that name.

I arrived to my home on Avenida Copacabana and Rua(street) Franciso Sa and was greeted by Zenira, my host mother. At home, I am living with Zenira, her mother who I affectionately call Aboa(grandmother), her son Raphael, another exchange student from Britain named Robin, and the maid named Jenny. The family, and most Brazilians that I have met are very warm and friendly, almost touchy by American standards. Home is one block from Copacabana beach, on the southern end near Ipanema beach. They are both beautiful places and when the weather is good, these 5 miles of beaches are full of tourists and locals drinking coffee, beer, juices, playing sand volleyball, sand soccer, jogging, biking. It is really a regular gym (although even though everyone thinks Brazilians all have perfect bodies, there is what I call a very full range of all people, and all people who are very comfortable with their bodies).

I started class on Monday, and it is going well. My school, BridgeLinguatec, is located in the historical business and political heart of the city. I take the metro there every morning at about 7:30, and am in class until 12:30. After that, my classmates and I usually head out for lunch at one of the many lunch buffets where you pay for food by the kilo. The food is everything from fried chicken to any kind of fruit imaginable. In the afternoons, there are educational outings. Yesterday, I took a trip across the bay to the town of Niteroi, where my classmates and I went to a museum(pic attached). Other than that, usually about evening, I head out to the beach and run along the boulevard for a few miles for some excercise. Don't worry, it is comfortably safe, although safety is a concern here, and you usually just carry enough money for your person on that day.

And of course, I must thank the Rotary of Copacabana, which invited me to dinner on my first night in Rio. My host counselor, Alexandre, met me at the Hotel Sofitel in Copa, and I was treated to a nice meal and a presentation about a Rotary Conference attended in the Isle of Man. I hope that I can attend more events and become involved in their activities.

That's all for now. Thought for the day. Did you know that the salutation Chau or Ciao in Italian comes from the word "slave"? It is a Venitian word that was used to imply respect to the person addressed, as in "I am your slave". I thank my Sicialian classmate Alberto for that one. Boa Dia!